Alpine meadows, cows, sheep, a reservoir that looks like a mountain lake, and a stillness you'd never guess was just a ten-minute drive up from the valley.
I head up there several times a year. Not to hike or bag summits, just to clear my head for a while. Drive up, walk around the lake, sit at the paragliders' launch spot and look down over the Leitzach valley. Then stop somewhere for a bite. That's all it takes.
My Sudelfeld
Why I keep heading up there
I'm no mountaineer. I've never been up the Traithen, and I haven't even done the Vogelsang above the pastures, that one already calls for something sturdier than sneakers, and so far I've been too lazy for it. What I do instead: I drive up in the morning, before the huts open. Park at the Walleralm or Speckalm, walk around the reservoir, sit down at the paragliders' launch spot, and look down over Bayrischzell and the Leitzach valley.
That sounds like nothing much. And it is. But that's exactly the point. Up there it's quiet, the air feels different, the view stretches for miles. If you want to catch a whiff of alpine pasture without three hours of climbing to get there, the Upper Sudelfeld is the shortest route to it.
And if you can make it in the evening: the sunset up there is a dream. There are people who drive up regularly just for that. I'm more of a morning person myself, but I'd recommend it to anyone.
The Reservoir
Controversial, but beautiful
The reservoir at the Walleralm was built in 2014/2015 to supply the snow machines in winter, and it stirred up a lot of controversy. A major intrusion on the alpine landscape, no question. But today, a few years on, I have to admit: the lake fits. It settles into the landscape, adds another dimension to the whole area, and creates photo opportunities that simply weren't there before.
A loop trail with a few benches runs around the lake. The compensation areas around it have grown into real biotopes, with amphibians, insects, wildflowers. If you look closely, you'll see more than just a snowmaking pond.
Where to Eat
Walleralm and Speckalm, worth the stop
Up at the Upper Sudelfeld, two huts sit right next to each other: the Walleralm and the Speckalm. When it comes to the food, there's not much between them, both serve solid alpine fare, a sunny terrace, mountain views.
I know the folks who run the Speckalm personally, the owner used to be a coworker of mine, and I've shot quite a bit of video together with her husband. And over the winter season I've built up a good rapport with the Walleralm. Both are honest places where you can tell there are real people behind them.
Further down toward Oberaudorf you'll find the Grafenherberg and the Brösel Alm at the Berghotel Sudelfeld. I haven't been to either myself, so I can't say anything about them.
One note: parking at the Walleralm and Speckalm is free. But if you park there, you're expected to stop in and eat, and honestly, you'll want to anyway.
For Hikers
What's out there, even though I'm no peak-bagger myself
I'm the wrong guy for detailed route descriptions up the Traithen. But here's what I can tell you: the Sudelfeld is an excellent starting point for hikes of all levels.
For beginners: the loop around the Upper Sudelfeld, past the reservoir, with views of the Wendelstein and the Inn valley. Flat, family-friendly, easily done in half an hour.
For the more ambitious: the Vogelsang (1,563 m / 5,130 ft) sits right above the pastures. Sturdy shoes are a must, not full-on hiking boots, but not sneakers either.
For serious mountain hikers: the Großer Traithen (1,852 m / 6,075 ft) from the Rosengasse parking lot, or the Brünnsteinhaus with an optional via ferrata to the summit. Sure-footedness and a head for heights are required.
For the exact route descriptions, I'd point you to Komoot or the Alpine Club, they do that better than I ever could.
Flying
Paragliders and hang gliders at the Vogelsang
Up at the Vogelsang above the Upper Sudelfeld there are official launch sites for paragliders and hang gliders. In good conditions you'll regularly see them take off, a lovely sight, even if you stay on the ground yourself. Tandem flights can be booked, in case you want to try it out.
And the launch spot is worth a visit even when nobody's flying. The view from up there down into the Leitzach valley and over Bayrischzell is one of the best I know.
Nearby
The Tatzelwurm Waterfalls
Below the Sudelfeld, along the road between Oberaudorf and Bayrischzell, lie the Tatzelwurm Waterfalls. Is the detour worth it? Yes. The falls are impressive, and the setting is pretty remote, which gives the whole place a special character. This is also where they've filmed for the ZDF series "Frühling."
Right next door there's a hotel that a friend of mine, who recently vacationed there, highly recommended. I haven't been there myself, but the location alone is spectacular.
Getting There & Parking
How to make it up
From Bayrischzell: take the B307 toward Oberaudorf, then the turnoff up to the Sudelfeld. In about ten minutes you're at the Upper Sudelfeld. Parking at the Walleralm/Speckalm is free.
From Oberaudorf / Brannenburg: from the Brannenburg side you go up the toll road, it costs a few euros and it's worth every cent. A lovely stretch with spots to pull over and take it in along the way. From the Oberaudorf side, the drive is free.
Other parking: further down on the Sudelfeld there are paid lots (Waldkopf, Grafenherberg, Rosengasse), usually 5 euros. Up at the huts it's free.
Drive up in the morning, before the huts open. Then you'll have the Upper Sudelfeld almost to yourself. One lap around the reservoir, a glance over at the launch spot, and a look down at Bayrischzell. It's hard to find a better start to the day within a ten-minute drive of Bayrischzell.
Mehr Eindrücke aus Bayrischzell gibt es auf meinem Instagram-Kanal.
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